Simmer the Octopus: In a large pot, add the onion, garlic, pepper, bay leaves, and sea salt. Bring to a boil, and dunk the octopus, only the ends of the tentacles, three times to create those curls. Then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook for 30 minutes or until a knife easily pierces the thickest part of a tentacle.

Preheat the Grill: While the octopus is simmering, preheat your grill or barbecue to a very high temperature.

Drain and Dry: Carefully remove the octopus from the pot. Let it drain, then pat it dry with paper towels (drier skin yields a better char). At this point, you can cut the octopus into individual tentacles or leave it whole.

Season: Brush the octopus generously with olive oil.

• For the Lebanese style, rub the tentacles with the cumin, coriander, paprika, and cinnamon.

• For the Gallega style, save the seasoning for after the grill! Just oil it lightly for now.

Grill: Place the octopus on the screaming hot grill. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes per side, just until it has a nice char and is heated through.

Serve: * Serve the Lebanese octopus hot with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

• Serve the Gallega octopus sliced into coins, dusted generously with the Spanish paprika, coarse sea salt, and a heavy drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.